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Easy Guide: Varanasi

An Easy Guide is something that I have always looked out for. Travelling to a brand new place and sometimes alone can be extremely daunting because of the uncertainties. I have, therefore, at several points in my life reached out to people to share their itineraries with me. A tried and tested recipe is always better than something that has not been tried. These Easy Guides are for people who would like a little bit of certainty in their travel- and personally, I think, thats a good thing! These easy guides cut out the obvious like how to get to a certain place.

This Easy Guide to Varanasi is long overdue. I visited Varanasi in August 2014 and had a wonderful trip. I stayed there for three nights and promised myself that I would be back. Varanasi, one of the oldest cities in India, is really that- old. There is garbage, animals, and people dressed in ancient clothes in plenty. It is wonderful. And mind you, the garbage I am talking about is not the plastic wrappers of fast foods- but organic waste that is eaten by the cattle on the streets and pooped on the streets too. Varanasi, gained a lot of mileage in the year 2014 because of the Lok Sabha elections and anyway as a must- see place in the country, there is a lot written about it. However, if there is one thing I would like to say about Varanasi it would be that it is one of the most historic, 'peaceful' and culturally rich places I have seen. If there was one place I would let my younger sister travel to alone- it would be Varanasi- I found it quite safe although the expereinces of others might have been different.

I went to Varanasi by train. Once you get off the train you might not be too sure about which exit to take. Go by your instinct. There are two exits- one of them is a quiet and clean end. Thats mostly NOT your route. You then need to go to the other exit. The other exit, from the minute you get out, is chaotic, noisy and full of people. Welcome!

Varanasi: In the morning, the street on which is Kashivishwanath Temple. 
The place we stayed in is called Ram Bhavan which is run by the Kautilya Society. The Kautilya Society helps preserve the heritage of the city. In order to stay at Ram Bhavan, you need to be a member of the society. You can become a member by paying a small registration fee. I became a member of the society for 6 months only to be allowed to stay there for 3 days. People of all nationalities are allowed. The staff at Ram Bhawan believe in treating their guests with trust and take the fee only once you reach there. (Yes, no booking/ reservation fee).

In order to get to Ram Bhavan, follow the instructions on the website. They are perfect. We took a cycle rickshaw to the place before 8 am, because that is the only time (and the only vehicle) that is allowed closest to Ram Bhavan. Remember to pack a light luggage as the drop off point is quite far from Ram Bhavan and you don't want to lug a heavy load. I am sure, however, that some porters will offer to carry the luggage for you- although that's an option I didn't choose.

Once you get off the cycle rickshaw, it can get a bit unnerving to find the very tiny lane that goes to Ram Bhawan. Its unbelieavable that such a narrow lane can lead to something. However, just ask around or call the office and you will reach the place.
Lucknowi Kurtas and a Sari

Ram Bhawan offers excellent services for a hostel (its not only for the youth however). The mixed dorms are cheap, absolutely clean and safe. You can leave things lying around and find them exactly where you left them. They serve breakfast and lunch (which is delicious) but serve no dinner. However, there are several places right below on the same narrow street that serve good international food (most cuisines). Ram Bhawan is walking distance away from Kashivishwanath Temple which is very famous and the ghats. In order to get to Sarnath (about a days trip)- the place where Gautam Buddha gave his first sermon, you will have to book an autorickshaw. We got an autorickshaw for around 150 INR one way. We did not ask the guy to wait for us hence we paid less. Sarnath is beautiful. It is definitely a place that has to be visited. In case you can, on the way to Sarnath, you can stop at the weaver's colony and see handlooms and powerlooms on which are woven the finest Benarasi silk sarees (This is not a tourist place). If you are staying long enough, you could ask the weavers to weave a saree or a piece of cloth for you. They might agree. But please be generous with your payment to them. (In case you want to get in touch with any weaver, leave me a comment- and no I am not getting any commision for this!) You could also walk about 30 minutes ahead from Kashivishwanath Temple and buy yourself some comfortable and beautiful Lucknowi Kurtas (the price is written on the kurtas, we paid 240 for a small one and about 600 for a really rare and exquisite one). 
The Food For Steel Stomachs! Look ONLY at the food while you eat!
As for food, you could eat at Ram Bhawan, the lane below or if you are craving beef or mutton, go to the main road and ask someone where you might get non vegetarian food. We asked a muslim shop owner to guide us to awesome biryani and kebabs and he did. I strongly recommend eating at these places only if you have a stomach of steel. The places are extremely unhygenic and can make you terribly sick. My friend and I, relished the meal and would go back for more. In some ways, my friend and I are pretty lucky!

The Stupa at Sarnath

There are several places to see in Varanasi like Benaras Hindu University and a few other temples. I didn't get the chance to see many places hence I promised myself that I would be back.

In order to leave Varanasi, you could take the train (get to the railway station the same way you came) or you could book a cab. The person who drove us to the airport is a guy named Amit Upadhyay. He refused to give us a discount despite me telling him that I would write about him. That says something about him doesn't it? His number is 07275377540. The way to the airport is something totally different- roll down the window and take in the sights!

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